Saturday, May 26, 2012

Inspired in Cervenica


Cervenica is a little town in eastern Slovakia. Draw an Isosceles triangle with the base as the road from Presov to Kosice, point the triangle eastward, and put the equal side as the distance from Kosice to the point, and you will have nearly found Cervenica.  We went there as two of a dozen folks from the International Church of Bratislava.
Glenda from our group signing
We wanted to present gifts to the school and do a little work for them.  We left at about 6AM on Saturday morning and got there a little after noon.  This may give you a sense of the town's isolation;  we rode with a Presov native who had been to Cervenica before, we attempted to follow signs, we had a map, and we still got to the town on a logging road rather than the main one.


The school itself is an agency of the Slovak Lutheran Church.  Why in such a small town? We never got a clear answer for that question, but we speculate that (1), the state gave the church the building, a closed elementary school; (2), many of the children are from eastern Slovakia, and are of Roma or mixed Slovak-Roma culture, which is prevalent in the area; (3), country atmosphere is good for the students; or (4), the culture, like that of most of the West, would just as soon forget the children exist, and putting the school in a small town helps the process.  Probably number (1) is the most logical, and number (4) is the most cynical.

Kudos to the director and his staff, most of whom live in Presov.  These children require round-the-clock care on a shoestring budget, and these people provide a clean, safe atmosphere.  The students must have some hearing and some sight loss.  Slovakia provides schools for children who are either sight-impaired or hearing-impaired, but this is the only school for children who who have some of both.  According to the director, percentages of loss run from twenty or thirty percent to nearly complete.  Disabilities often come in multiples, however, so most of these children have other challenges as well, including mobility, the autism spectrum, and behavior.

The director's training is in social psychology, so he depends on his staff for much of the care.  Cervenica is a boarding school, but we went there on a state school holiday weekend so many of the twenty-five or so children and several staff members had gone with parents or, even, back to the orphanage from which they came. Still, five children stayed at the school which meant that a half dozen of the staff needed to be there as well.  The director took us on a tour of the facility after lunch and gave us a summary of each classroom and each student.  He then took us through the rest of the facility, showing us with some pride the wood stove/furnace he had built.  Electricity is the main cost in rural areas, and wood is plentiful, so heating with wood is logical.  It helps that the director's main hobby is--you guessed it--building stoves.  
 
Just before we arrived he finished a greenhouse.  He welded the frame and installed the glass himself (another hobby?).  He had not thought to put one in, but then a series of circumstances intervened.  Many dairy farms dot the area around Cervenica, serving the rest of the country, but that means the water is not the best quality.  The school needs medically approved water, which drillers located on a hill above.  The well, however, overflows occasionally and puts water down a trace behind the school.  The director, clever man that he is, channeled the water and built a greenhouse over the channel, creating a self-watering space when the well overflows.  However, when he built the addition he displaced a large amount of dirt, and workers brought in more sand than the greenhouse needed, so that created two piles of dirt and sand that needed to be moved.  The director took one look at the eleven ladies and one one man and decided that he would get no work done.  A lot of persuasion convinced him to let us try, and our faith moved mountains. Well, hills.  Well, piles. Others did yeoman work weeding the gardens in the terrace area.  After clean-up and supper, some of the group headed for the town bar for a beer. Townsfolk, unaccustomed to any visitors much less English speakers. discretely gawked, and local children ran through the bar to get a look at these foreigners.



Our intern pastor conducted a worship service Sunday morning and staff and students attended. Peter, our Presov native and driver, translated for them.  The camp song "Father Abraham" with its repetition and physical movements, attracted a lot of attention.

We visited Spis Castle (and got some wonderful sheep cheese) on our way home.  Although we enjoyed those additions, the school remained at the center of our thoughts.  The director's central concern is visibility, public awareness.  Tucked away in the small town of Cervenica, the school can be nearly invisible unless people make the time and effort to see what it is and what it does.  Paula, who has worked with special needs children for many years, sums it up:  You need to accept the children for who they are now, not what you wish they were or what they might have been.  Then you need to help them become what they can be.  The director, his staff, and the school in Cervenica allow this to happen.

Monday, May 14, 2012

Getting High in the Tatras

Hello from High Tatra National Park!  Actually, we're in the flat in Bratislava, but you'll remember (don't you?) that the last blog post about Lisbon came from the Panorama Hotel in Strbske Pleso, the resort area where we stayed, and that post promised photos of our trip. Here are the photos, and a little description of our adventures.

Paula, studying the rules
When we visited in Colorado last summer, we found out that Rocky Mountain National Park and the High Tatras National Park (part in Slovakia and part in Poland) were sisters, like sister cities.  We already wanted to go to the Tatras, but that made us even more anxious.  A Slovak teacher at the lyceum told us that the two parks became "sisters" so the Slovak park could learn the ropes--and now the small country of Slovakia has nine national parks!

By the time the school year was under way and we had the time, traveling in the Tatras posed some risk, so we decided to come in the Spring.  The mountains in all of Slovakia got a lot of snow this last year, but our end-of-April break (tied up with the May Day holiday)
Cogs in the track
promised good weather, so we went. We took the train to Strba, a small junction along the way east, and caught the cog railway there.  The Strba spur is the only cog railway in Slovakia, so we wanted to try it.  Cogs help the train up the
...and here comes the train!
steep grade to Strbske Pleso.  "Pleso" is Slovak for "Mountain Lake," so this is Strba Mountain Lake.  






Strbske Pleso on Saturday morning
When we got there on Friday, the lake was nearly completely frozen over, despite the air temperature being near 70. When we left the next Tuesday, the lake was
Strbske Pleso on Tuesday
nearly completely open, although we were not tempted to go swimming.  The ducks, with no nerve endings in their webbed feet, and the frogs, who were mating and noisy and didn't care, were all fine with the cold water.


We took our first hike on Saturday up to Popradske Pleso, another (you guessed it) mountain lake.  The trails are all very well marked, but that didn't prevent us from getting off onto a logging road and having to scramble up a ridge to the right trail.  As we got higher the snow got deeper; witness the hiker looking at a bridge rail, which should have been like another one on the same path a little later.  Hikers got off the beaten path at their own peril, and sometimes sank into soft snow and running water even from the walked-on path.  This was particularly true when we hiked up to a waterfall on Monday, after a couple more days of warm weather.  We could hear runoff under the snow upon which we were walking, and the water sometimes melted the snow too much.  We also waded through rivulets made by the melted snow.  By that time, though, we had given ourselves (or each other) advance Mother's and Father's Day presents of hiking sticks, and a welcome addition they were!
The waterfall, and the sticks

 
A trail marker for cross-country

Sunday we went to church, of course.  Well. we went to Kezmarok, about an hour and a half train ride through Poprad. Kezmarok has one of the biggest "articled" (that is, wooden) churches in Slovakia.  These churches got their names when the Austro-Hungarian empire made it legal (published articles) in the eighteenth century for Protestants to build churches again.  The churches had to be of wood with no nails, be built within a year, and be outside the city
City gate, with the church outside
walls.  German Protestants had settled in Kezmarok in the sixteenth century, so the town was quite well disposed towards them.  The first church went up shortly after the decree, but the Lutherans replaced it about thirty years later with the present structure.  Not content, they built a new church in the nineteenth century.  A lyceum building
Pointing to "Lyceum Library"
stands on the same plaza, and although the school closed in the 1850s the library remains, and is available as a great resource for those who study the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.


We were immensely lucky.  Lutherans worshiped at nine; we arrived after ten.  Both the old an new churches had hours posted, but not until Tuesday.  We wandered around the outside until a woman approached us and asked us (in German) if we were not the German tourists.  We said no, we came from the USA and worked at the lyceum in Bratislava, and asked if she spoke English.  She said no, but rapped on the door of the old church.  Another woman came to the door, they spoke in Slovak, and the second woman let us in! We paid our 2 euro admission and wandered around in the wooden church for half an hour.  We could not take pictures, but ask to see our postcards!  When we emerged, the first woman said she needed to set up the "new" church for the German tourists, so would we like to see it?  We followed her in and bought a CD of the organs, new church and old, being played by a woman who now is on the seminary faculty here in Bratislava.


Kezmarok is more than the churches; it is a pleasant city.  We stopped for a little something on the way to the castle, which (alas) was not open, and we had a lovely lunch at The Three Apostles (we ate at the Twelve Apostles in Kosice, but Kosice is bigger). Then we returned to Strbske Pleso for our wonderful, if wet, hike to the waterfall the next day.  We returned to Bratislava on Tuesday, only to go east again the next weekend.  Stay tuned!


 

Monday, April 30, 2012

Lisboa em Grande


A view from Coelho Park (see below)
Yes, we had decided at Christmas break in Italy that we would concentrate on seeing Eastern Slovakia before we went elsewhere in Europe.  We took a cold trip to Banska Bystrica and Kosice (remember the blog post?) in late February to honor that pledge.  But then…we heard from a couple of friends that they had a wonderful time in Lisbon, and it seemed a shame that we had spent so much time in Spain without so much as putting a toe on Portuguese soil.  To make up for past mistakes, we broke with our intent to spend our remaining holidays in Slovakia, and forced ourselves to fly to Lisbon over Easter break.  That is our rationalization, and we’re sticking to it.

A day view from our flat
A night view from our flat
We arrived at 5 P.M. on Thursday and went to our apartment, a one-bedroom flat with a lovely kitchen and living area.  Alex(andre), our host, met us and led us to the fourth (fifth, by U.S. standards) floor; no elevator, so we felt right at home from the beginning. The view from the flat is spectacular.

See?
That first evening we traipsed down to the Mini Price Market to stock up on breakfast things and snacks.  When we say DOWN, we mean DOWN.  Lisbon, like Rome, is built on seven hills, but in Lisbon’s case the hills are steep and high.  If streets in Lisbon do not go UP and DOWN, then they probably got wiped out in the famous 1755 earthquake, flood, and fire that took out a goodly share of the central city.  When we walked, we exercised well, and we took public transportation a lot.  Of course, Lisbon is a big city, with a metro area population of nearly three million. 

Many Lisbonites, and most of the people in the rest of Portugal, observe the second half of Good Friday as a holiday, so we thought we would spend time getting acquainted with the city.  We set out fairly early and immediately got hailed on.  (In truth, the weather cooperated most of the time we spent there; the only other rain came as we queued up at the airport to return.)  If we had been clever we would have taken pictures; Alex said it had rained “little rocks” the day before, rare enough that he knew neither the English nor the Portuguese word for the phenomenon.  The skies gradually cleared as we headed down the street to catch the tram. 

Another view from Coelho Park
The castle, from across the valley
Along the way, a park dedicated to Eduardo Coelho (who founded Lisbon’s biggest newspaper) offered us wonderful views across the valley in between the hills (the part that took the heaviest damage in 1755) to the castle and cathedral.  From the tram stop, we took number 28 up into the historic area, The castle, Sao Jorge, overlooks the city from the other side of the valley than Coelho park, but in a much more spectacular way. First built by the Moors and captured by crusaders in 1147, Sao Jorge served the kings of Portugal until the earthquake and flood, and then in other roles until the early part of the nineteenth century.

Renovation began in the 1940s and it now serves tourists, cats, and peacocks well. 







Walk down from the castle through the winding, twisting medieval streets and encounter some peculiar diversions!

Central Lisbon, rebuilt after 1755, looks like many other eighteenth century European cities, with many of the same stores.











The Tower of Belem--watchtower, prison
The part of the city called Belem has a rich seafaring tradition; many of the fifteenth and sixteenth century explorers launched from there.  And most things are free on the Saturday before Easter! The church of Santa Maria de Belem is in the Monastery of San Jeronimo.
The explorers' monument


Santa Maria de Belem













  


The Moorish castle in Sintra
Venturing outside the city toward the Atlantic coast makes things change dramatically-- first, to Sintra,  a bit inland with another Moorish-built castle that provided a view of the coast and warning if enemies approached.   





Then along the coast past Estoril to Cascais to see what Portugal's Atlantic Ocean looks like.


 

Wildlife in Cascais
 





 





Most folks explore the central and historic parts of Lisbon and not much more.  We, however, went further.  The truth is, not much opens on Easter Monday, except for the huge Oceanarium (aquarium), the second largest in the world.  The Oceanarium stands as the centerpiece of Expo ’98 architecture, which dramatically altered the landscape of north Lisbon.  If you work it right, a cable car takes you there! The Oceanarium features all of the world's ocean ecosystems on several different floors.
Fearless underwater photographer
Penguins in Portugal?










We did return to a “see Slovakia first” agenda; as a matter of fact, this post comes from Strbske Pleso, or Strbske lake, on the edge of High Tatras National Park in Eastern Slovakia.  But that is a post for next time!