Monday, April 30, 2012

Lisboa em Grande


A view from Coelho Park (see below)
Yes, we had decided at Christmas break in Italy that we would concentrate on seeing Eastern Slovakia before we went elsewhere in Europe.  We took a cold trip to Banska Bystrica and Kosice (remember the blog post?) in late February to honor that pledge.  But then…we heard from a couple of friends that they had a wonderful time in Lisbon, and it seemed a shame that we had spent so much time in Spain without so much as putting a toe on Portuguese soil.  To make up for past mistakes, we broke with our intent to spend our remaining holidays in Slovakia, and forced ourselves to fly to Lisbon over Easter break.  That is our rationalization, and we’re sticking to it.

A day view from our flat
A night view from our flat
We arrived at 5 P.M. on Thursday and went to our apartment, a one-bedroom flat with a lovely kitchen and living area.  Alex(andre), our host, met us and led us to the fourth (fifth, by U.S. standards) floor; no elevator, so we felt right at home from the beginning. The view from the flat is spectacular.

See?
That first evening we traipsed down to the Mini Price Market to stock up on breakfast things and snacks.  When we say DOWN, we mean DOWN.  Lisbon, like Rome, is built on seven hills, but in Lisbon’s case the hills are steep and high.  If streets in Lisbon do not go UP and DOWN, then they probably got wiped out in the famous 1755 earthquake, flood, and fire that took out a goodly share of the central city.  When we walked, we exercised well, and we took public transportation a lot.  Of course, Lisbon is a big city, with a metro area population of nearly three million. 

Many Lisbonites, and most of the people in the rest of Portugal, observe the second half of Good Friday as a holiday, so we thought we would spend time getting acquainted with the city.  We set out fairly early and immediately got hailed on.  (In truth, the weather cooperated most of the time we spent there; the only other rain came as we queued up at the airport to return.)  If we had been clever we would have taken pictures; Alex said it had rained “little rocks” the day before, rare enough that he knew neither the English nor the Portuguese word for the phenomenon.  The skies gradually cleared as we headed down the street to catch the tram. 

Another view from Coelho Park
The castle, from across the valley
Along the way, a park dedicated to Eduardo Coelho (who founded Lisbon’s biggest newspaper) offered us wonderful views across the valley in between the hills (the part that took the heaviest damage in 1755) to the castle and cathedral.  From the tram stop, we took number 28 up into the historic area, The castle, Sao Jorge, overlooks the city from the other side of the valley than Coelho park, but in a much more spectacular way. First built by the Moors and captured by crusaders in 1147, Sao Jorge served the kings of Portugal until the earthquake and flood, and then in other roles until the early part of the nineteenth century.

Renovation began in the 1940s and it now serves tourists, cats, and peacocks well. 







Walk down from the castle through the winding, twisting medieval streets and encounter some peculiar diversions!

Central Lisbon, rebuilt after 1755, looks like many other eighteenth century European cities, with many of the same stores.











The Tower of Belem--watchtower, prison
The part of the city called Belem has a rich seafaring tradition; many of the fifteenth and sixteenth century explorers launched from there.  And most things are free on the Saturday before Easter! The church of Santa Maria de Belem is in the Monastery of San Jeronimo.
The explorers' monument


Santa Maria de Belem













  


The Moorish castle in Sintra
Venturing outside the city toward the Atlantic coast makes things change dramatically-- first, to Sintra,  a bit inland with another Moorish-built castle that provided a view of the coast and warning if enemies approached.   





Then along the coast past Estoril to Cascais to see what Portugal's Atlantic Ocean looks like.


 

Wildlife in Cascais
 





 





Most folks explore the central and historic parts of Lisbon and not much more.  We, however, went further.  The truth is, not much opens on Easter Monday, except for the huge Oceanarium (aquarium), the second largest in the world.  The Oceanarium stands as the centerpiece of Expo ’98 architecture, which dramatically altered the landscape of north Lisbon.  If you work it right, a cable car takes you there! The Oceanarium features all of the world's ocean ecosystems on several different floors.
Fearless underwater photographer
Penguins in Portugal?










We did return to a “see Slovakia first” agenda; as a matter of fact, this post comes from Strbske Pleso, or Strbske lake, on the edge of High Tatras National Park in Eastern Slovakia.  But that is a post for next time!


Thursday, April 19, 2012

A "Quarterly" Blog Post?



Us!  Well, maybe not.
Have we lost interest in the blog?  By no means! The problem is time and energy.  We have been very busy since January (our last entry), particularly on weekends, when these posts typically happen.  Much of the busyness derives from school work that teachers have (as opposed to homework, that students have) so we don’t want to talk about it. Oh, yes, the 5th year students did have their traditional costume day; pictured is Paula in her Latin American teacher garb.  The students--namely the student council--sponsored the 4th annual school formal dance, or Ples as it's known in Central Europe.  Like Mardi Gras, Ples has to be held before Lent.

Bratislava reopened the Reduta, the home of the Slovak Philharmonic Orchestra, at the end of January.  The hall had been closed for renovation for two years.  The revitalized hall is very fancy and very useful with two concert halls and a number of recital rooms.  The staff puts on a purple light show at the end of the orchestra's concert.  That information is added so you will know that the purple hue on a couple of these pictures is not from the camera.
Some of the attendees
The International Church in Bratislava got a new pastor, Miriam Schmidt, in mid-February.  The previous pastor, Arden Haug, remained as coordinator for Europe for ELCA Global Mission, so we had the unusual experience of having the outgoing pastor install the incoming pastor. That process required extra work for Paula, since she served on the committee of three to provide the “hail and farewell” luncheon for the two pastors.  Connection with the school helped, since the congregation could hold the event in the cafeteria of the gymnasium, the Evangelical Lyceum’s elementary school, a block away from the church.

SNP Square, Banska Bystrica
We had committed to spending time in Slovakia during our semester break at the end of February instead of gallivanting all over Europe, so the day after Ples we left for Banska
Another side of SNP Square
Bystrica and Kosice in the central and eastern part of the country.  “Banska” means “mine” (a hole in the ground, not a possessive) in Slovak, so you know where Banska Bystrica’s money
The SNP museum
came from, at least until gold and silver deposits petered out. (See our June post from last year).  BB was also at the center of the Slovak national uprising (SNP is the acronym derived from the words in Slovak) against the Nazis in 1944, so houses the modern looking SNP museum.  

As a side trip we went to Kremnica, site of the Austro-Hungarian, and then the Czechoslovak, and now the Slovak mint.  Euros are not made there now, but many commemoratives are.  The mint also
Kremnica's main square
supplied coinage to many countries that chose not to do their own coin manufacturing until the beginning years
From the Castle Church tower


Another view
of this millennium.  An example is Algeria; we, certainly, did not know until this trip that in the 1970s Paula might well have been using dinars made in Slovakia!  As you can see, we were cold during our trip.  That's not surprising, since we were on the edge of the mountains at the end of February.
Main square, looking back
Castle exit (or entrance)













St. Elizabeth's Cathedral, Kosice
Kosice is the country’s second-largest city, and there is a Lutheran school there as well.  We had dinner with an ELCA colleague.  As noted, Kosice stands as the edge of the Tatra mountains, so it is industrial; U.S. Steel is one of the big employers in the area
and one of the sponsors of the technological museum there.  Though minerals taken from
Entrance to the church tower
the earth meant wealth for both cities, different mining in separated eras led to unique development.

View from the church tower













We just finished Easter break, during which we broke our commitment to see Slovakia first!  Some friends had gone to Lisbon and raved about it, and February’s cold weather got to us, so we ended up in Portugal.  But more about that next time! And the time after that, God willing, we'll explain wooden churches
Relocated to Kosice
and say more about Eastern Slovakia.